Lijiang – Tiger Leaping Gorge
Leaping Tiger Gorge Tour – Part 2
Finally we make it into the gorge, with the driver refusing to slow down. Don’t worry though, the occasional 6cm tall cement block will prevent us from a deadly plummet.
The guide points out the “old” trail on the other side. This was used up through the 1980s.
We are let out at this firewood shack… ummm no wait… this can’t be right.
The group heads down a stone, dirt and grass trail down into the gorge. Everyone in the group is overdressed and underprepared for this nightmare of a hike. That’s our guide wearing the jeans and heavy black denim jacket.
Then there’s “Mr Suit” who for some reason, decided to hike this mountain in designer business attire. He typically brought up the rear and struggled the whole way.
A quick note about Tiger Leaping Gorge
The gorge is a 9 mile stretch of the Jinsha River, a primary tributary of the upper Yangtze River, that cuts between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (I ascended in 2012) and Haba Snow Mountain. The height difference from mountain top to the river is roughly 12,000ft.
The Naxi people of the Lijiang inhabit a few villages within the gorge. Traditionally farmers, many have taken up to creating makeshift bridges, setting up small refreshment stands, and renting out horses for those stuck below, and maintaining the lower trails.
The narrow cut the river travels through accelerates the water to fatal levels. Because of the remoteness, danger, and poor infrastructure of the region, it wasn’t until 1993 that it was made accessible to travelers. The Upper Gorge was given infrastructure improvements as a part of its National Scenic Area designation, including paved overlooks, cement and steel bridges, and security.
That’s where I THOUGHT I was hiking. Turns out this was a tour of the lower, undeveloped, and locally-owned trail.
The range here is epic. Shear cliffs tower above the river bellow, and have hundreds of small cascades dumping even more water into the gorge.
At points, the trail hugs closely the gorge edge.
Every once and a while there’s a nice view and a sign like this. See that huge boulder in the middle of the rapids? That’s where we are headed.
a few hours in, the trail is getting narrow and the river loud.
Almost there.
The last stretch down to river. That’s a shantytown for supplies.
Everything down here is soaked from the mist of the rapids. Very slippery.
10 Yuan to the villagers who built the bridge and wrapped some safety wire around the boulder.
Halfway across the bridge – looking back. There was too much mist spray looking the other way.
Ok… So it wasn’t so bad getting here, but now how do we get up?
Here’s the way back up. Oh Shit. That’s almost straight up.
That line on the right, a bunch of ladders strung together.
The steepest, most grueling leg of the journey. It’s hot, 100% humidity, and our clothes are soaked and clinging tightly. It’s hard to move, breath, and impossible to see where this hike ends.
Occasionally there will be a stall run by some local villagers. While seats are by far what people rush for, those that didn’t bring water can pick some up here, as well as some Chinese snacks, local produce, and even some weed.
Occasionally there is a widening of the trail, where there’s one of these guys, off to the side, waiting to haul some poor guy out.
Had to step off the trail to let this lady get horse-hauled out.
A view from near the top
Getting closer.
The last stretch was slow and painful. While the ground started to level off, soaked clothes, exhaustion, and general wonder as to when this torture will end kept our eyes off the beautiful scenery and every in front of our feet.
Sad to say it, but Mr. Suit was a few feet ahead of me at the time. He was soaked, his pants torn and muddy, and he has long since ditched his jacket and rolled up the sleeves of his white shirt. He was struggling, but made it to the top. When we hit the top we were greeted by the family who lives on this land. They has a nice spread of refreshments and a makeshift restroom. I grabbed a water for myself and Mr. Suit. Everyone sat and enjoyed the view as we waited for the last of the group to show up.
The most challenging hike of my life. I’ll probably be back.
Mr Suit on the far left left. Local Naxi family on the right.
Breathtaking view
Exiting the gorge
A quick glimpse of the tourist-friendly side of the gorge.
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