Dali & Around Lake Erhai
Starting the day with a wonderful breakfast at the hotel. Local noodle dish and some eggs.
The hotel is located near the old town in on the Southwest shore of Lake Erhai, in a revitalized area. A lot of indie businesses, art shops, bars, restaurants, and boutique hotels.
This map outlines what attractions and oddities are around the lake, and some detail about the old town, which is huge. I never got to walk through all of it.
It’s a two-minute walk down some allies to the East Gate of the Old Town.
The East Gate is a remnant of the time this was a walled city. It’s usually crowded with art vendors, but not this early in the morning.
The Old Town is packed with small businesses stuffed into the buildings, some new, some old, following the layout the town dating back to the 8th century.
Open Air Market
No matter where you are in the world, the best place to grab an early lunch is at the local farmers’ market.
Old town has two. I was able to find one of them. ScenesFromAPublicMarket.com has all the photos. Click the image below to check it out.
Click this image to see a gallery of farmers’ market pics.
What’s for lunch?
It’s a tofu-like cake made out of fermented peas, in some cream pea soup with some spices on top. Really savory and hearty, like a gravy stew.
How does a non-native get around the lake? By renting a scooter, one of these pink minicars, or by private driver. Need a pink car, find the ladies in the pink hats–chances are they will find you and won’t leave you alone until you give in and rent something.
On the Road
A 30 minute drive north to Xizhou, which is known for it’s well-preserved local architecture.
The Bai people are the primary inhabitants of the Dali County. A Sino-Tibetan minority there are over 1.5 million in the region and despite the influx of Chinese people, language, and culture in the last 100 years, still maintain many traditions and values. Here, a Bai woman demonstrates on their signature crafts, a complex art of tie dying. Only indigo dye and white cotton (or flax) is used. Traditionally, all Bai girls would learn this craft, while all men learn wood carving, but this tradition is slowly fading. As tourism to the area grows, the demand for these goods seems to be on the rise.
The Bai hold the color white in high regard. Their traditional name literally means White People.
Farmers’ Market
One of the main roads near by in Xizhou is blocked off for a large Open Air Market. You can even see it in the satellite image below.
I’ll post images from this market to Scenesfromapublicmarket.com in the near future.
Here’s what I had as a snack there. Some sort of cold glutinous rice spicy vegetable crepe. No idea what was in it, but if kids are lining up to buy it, it must be good, right? And it was.
Jingdi Ancestral Temple
After the market, it’s a 40 minute drive around the north end of the lake to this rural Bai temple.
A view of the Lake from the temple.
Ovens outside the temple burn offerings around the clock.
Black ink paintings (with blue accents) murals are the signature of the Dali architectural style.
Inside the temple looking out. The pile of stuff is an offering.
Offerings
Important figures from this region’s past.
Female ancestors also play an important role in worship.
Offerings storage
There’s a small commerce area just outside the temple.
Traditional Bai clothes for children
It’s starting to rain on the other side of the lake.
To Shuanglang and Huanhai Rd
Shuanlang is a thriving tourist town with a 2.5 km main street packed with shops.
A vendor that sells pearls and makes jewelry custom on the spot.
Choose an oyster
Watch it get sliced open
about 15 pearls inside
Dali style architecture
Locals check community earning-shares. All the tax-paying residents are shareholders and stand to benefit from the tourism boom.
While the main street is wide open and full of life, the side streets are fantastic for exploration.
A late lunch of twice-cooked pork and a local noodle casserole dish.
Many opportunities along the road to see the lake.
Hotels along Tianshengying
Little Putuo Island
A 30 minute drive south to a small island in the east side of the lake.
Bai women
By the time I arrived at the temple the light was getting pretty low. There it is… just a temple on an island.
South to Dali City
An hour-long drive south to the modern city and their developed harbor.
The red you see off in the background is actually dirt, which is high in iron.
swimming club
Back to the hotel and Old Town
I really can’t get enough of the view.
Old Town is lively and fun at night, I was just too tired to explore it (again). Maybe next time I visit.
Lots of good food around.
Unfortunately the Sichuan place I stopped at wasn’t all that great.
Sichuan Garlic Pork
Black Chicken
You can always grab freshly made fruit juice.
making candy
The east gate at night
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