Old Shanghai

Walk to Old Town

I grab some of these fried street pancakes (filled with ground pork and spices) and head on a walk from the hotel to the Old Street and Yuyuan Gardens. I’ve been there before (in 2011) and it was too packed to be enjoyable, but that was at night and a different season, and I figured things have changed enough to give it another shot.

Chinese street pancake

A relatively quick 30 minute walk southeast to get there. Along the way I see that there’s construction everywhere.  Luckily some of the building are so high I can use them to determine direction and was able to get back to my hotel without a map/nav.

construction cranes in Shanghai

Very hot – very muggy out today.

Clothing drying in the streets of Shanghai

 

shopping in shanghai

 

Street scene showing shops in Shanghai

 

Street scene showing various shops in Shanghai

 

Still life parked bicycle scene in Shanghai old town

 

I totally remember the shopping street. It definitely has character. This was an old commercial district in the Ming Dynasty.

Tourist shopping street near the old town of Shanghai

At the end of the street are the buildings that surround the Yuyuan Gardens.

Beautiful architecture of Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

 

Old Chinese architecture in Yuyuan Gardens, Shanghai

 

 

Shopping inside Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

Once inside the complex, it’s easy to lose sight of the upper parts of the surrounding buildings.

classic chinese architecture at Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

mix of architectural styles at Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

While I was photographing here several scammers tried to get me. The big Shanghai trick is the teahouse scam. You usually get a couple, or a bunch of girls, approaching you very friendly-like. In my case it was two couples, each at different times, both asking me to take a photo for them. After that, they ask questions, get to know you — very friendly — they are “tourists too.” There’s not really a easy way to tell if it’s a scam at this point. But as soon as they mention “We are going to head to the tea house and see a Traditional tea ceremony, want to go?” that’s when you know it’s a scam. Couple Number 1: I dismissed right after they dropped that line. Couple number 2: I asked if they can show me where the City God Temple was on the way to the tea house, and when they showed me, I just bought a ticket and went in. No need to say goodbye or turn them down. They are out to scam tourists. No need for pleasantries.

City God Temple of Shanghai

I believe it was 10 yuan to enter this temple, which wasn’t very costly.
I guess the place dates back to the origin of the old town  in the Ming Dynasty when this was the primary temple.
It seemed like an average Daoist temple to me. Nothing too special.

Altar at City God Temple at Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

 

Many red good luck charms at City God Temple at Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

 

Altar at City God Temple in Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

 

A view from the entrance to City God Temple

 

An incense altar in front of a shrine at City God Temple

 

Another altar and shrine within Yuyuan Gardens in Shanghai

The line for the most popular dumpling restaurant was way too long for me, and I also had a suspicion that the dumplings were filled with crab juice. So I went to a smaller vendor to get my fix.

Shanghai soup dumplings with strawsThese are the Xialongbao dumplings that are famous in Shanghai. This particular vendor uses multicolored dough. Most of these are filled with crab juice soup and a pork meatball.  Not liking crab at all, I went right for the smaller pork soup dumplings.

Fresh xiolongbao (soup dumplings)

one order of xiolongbao (soup dumplings)

Yu Garden

Not going to go much into the history here, but let’s just say it was built in the Ming Dynasty by some rich people for some other rich people. It has been open to the public since 1780 and since then has gone under several renovations. I was put off by the 40 yuan entrance fee, but it did keep the crowd down and the garden was a nice peaceful afternoon hour.

The beautiful garden within Yu Garden in ShanghaiJust outside the gardens entrance.

 

 

 

Chinese signs in Calligraphy

 

An old circular door in Yu Garden in Shanghai

The Chinese were crazy for these stone arrangements back then.

A view of Yu Garden in Shanghai, showing a pond and bridge

 

 

 

an old window with writing on it, Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

a narrow stone pathway through Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

stone walkway at Yu Garden in Shanghai

There are several pavilions throughout the garden.

Octogonal window in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

red lacquer carved wood railing at Yu Garden in Shanghai

I didn’t realize it at first: the tops of the wall surrounding the garden were carved into a dragon.

Carved dragon wall that outlines Yu Garden

stone carving of a lion or some other animal

 

empty corner of Yu Garden lit in natural light

 

empty hallway in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

Stone and wood carved circular doorway in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

carved stone in Yu Garden

 

stone carvings hung an and outdoor wall in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

A wall in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

an old locked wooden door in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

Large stone carved dragon wall in Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

Inside of a building in Yu Garden

 

exterior of a small building in yu garden, showing the stonework and wood carved fence

 

I stumbled into this courtyard where a band was playing on instruments designed like Ming china.

Traditional porcelain instrumental band playing in the courtyard of Yu Garden in Shanghai

 

Traditional porcelain instrumental band playing in the courtyard of Yu Garden in Shanghai, with a few spectators

 

 

 

When I stitched this panorama together, I thought an error cause the bow in the bridge but it’s actually designed that way.

Panoramic image of a wooden bridge crossing the pond at Yu Garden

 

In the evening I just hung out, ate dinner, and walked around. It was way too hot.

 

Bonus

A terrible name for a pavilion next to the restrooms.

Chinglish sign in Shanghai

Comments

John

Very interesting to see these things in the middle of a mega city like Shanghai.
I especially liked the simple statue and doorway subjects of the garden.

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